Καλλιτέχνες - κοσμηματοποιοί στη σύγχρονη Θεσσαλονίκη
Part of : Εγνατία ; No.11, 2007, pages 165-189
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Pages:
165-189
Parallel Title:
Studio jewelers in contemporary Thessaloniki
Section Title:
Αρχαιολογία
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Abstract:
This essay presents the work of certain studio jewelers, who live and work in Thessaloniki, Greece, during the last twenty-five years.A notable part of the public of Thessaloniki over time appears to appreciate original objects of jewelry beyond those of mass production or of the anonymous craftsmen.The jewels to be presented have been created in the artistic laboratories: «Aenaon», «Pleiads», «Character - jewels in Art», «Anthes» and by the following individual studio jewelers: Antonis Goulas, Afroditi Goulas, Marianna Grammaticou, Stella Deligiannis, Anthi Haralampis, Fotini Nikolaidou, Iosif Iosifidis, Dimitri Dailanis and Katerina Ioannidis.It should be stressed that the abovementioned jewelers are not the only ones in Thessaloniki. However, they definitely constitute a representative sample of the city artists.Antonis Goulas has created dynamic compositions of cast silver and gold elements and gems. The work of Afroditi Goulas is distinguished for her big organic patterns and the unique, pictorial use of variegated enamels. The «Pleiads» contributed in the formation of a certain public that seeks the innovation. Marianna Grammaticou continues her career by creating jewels with big volumes, textured surfaces and natural materials, while Stella Deligiannis transforms her ideas and sentiments in metal objects to wear. Iosif Iosifidis is worldwidely known for the interesting use of enamel and the variety of patterns. «Anthes» (Anthi Charalambis and her daughter Fotini Nikolaidou), use the same techniques and materials to deliver different results, almost naive the former, more sophisticated the later. Dimitris Dailanis makes original use of perennial materials, such as the flowers and is inspired by the firmament. Katerina Ioannidis, heir of old family of goldsmiths, creates unique compositions from various materials, expressive and aesthetic perfection being her only criterion. She is one of the very few Greek female artists who present their work in the special gallery Electrum of London.The work of Thessaloniki studio jewelers known to date does not indicate the existence of a «movement» in the last decades. The artists follow independent, personal routes, preserving their individual characteristics. They constantly experiment on the types, the forms, the subjects, the techniques and the materials.However there are certain common elements in their methods, their pursuits and their, targets. They consider the jewel not a mere object of personal adornment or a consumable supplement of costume, but a means of notification of ideas and sentiments and of communication of the artist with those that wear and see their work. They do not exclude the use of new, techniques and non-precious —but non ephemeral— materials. They use traditional —even ancient— techniques and yellow gold and silver. They pay attention in the texture of the surfaces, and they often add the effervescent colors of enamel and gems, they consider the surfaces as a canvas for painting, without however charging them with excessive decorative details. Finally, technical perfection is very important: durable manufactures, original claspings, irreproachable finishing, dimensions and weights that respect the particularities of the human body.Studio jewelers of Thessaloniki are consciously pioneers. Many of them are members of JAW (Jewellery Art Workers). JAW is a union with members from all Greece and aims at the promotion and growth of contemporary Greek jewelry in the Greek and foreign markets, through presence in exhibitions and shows, exchanges with corresponding foreign teams and organization of seminars. In order to admit someone as a member of the union, he/she should create original works, since in our days copying is a standard practice for many of the mass production jewelers in Greece.
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